Late July is the peak of aubergine season at the markets of Bucha and the surrounding district. They are cheap, firm, glossy-skinned and almost seedless. Which makes it all the more annoying to ruin them in the pan: undercooked aubergines taste bitter, overcooked ones turn into an oily rag.

This is an original recipe from the Bucha FM editorial team — no complicated techniques or rare ingredients.

You will need: 3 medium aubergines, 3 cloves of garlic, a bunch of dill and parsley, 2 tablespoons of olive or sunflower oil, 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar, salt and freshly ground pepper. Optionally, half a red onion and a handful of nuts.

Step 1. Salt instead of oil. Slice the aubergines into rounds about a centimetre thick, salt them generously and leave in a colander for 20 minutes. They will release a darkish juice — that is what carries the bitterness. Rinse them, then dry thoroughly with kitchen paper. A wet aubergine steams in the pan rather than frying.

Step 2. A dry pan. The main mistake is pouring oil into a cold pan and adding the aubergines. The porous flesh absorbs every last drop instantly. Heat a griddle or ordinary pan well, lay the rounds on dry and cook for 3–4 minutes per side until clearly marked. Add the oil only at the end, as a light drizzle.

Step 3. Dress while hot. Layer the hot aubergines, scattering chopped garlic and herbs over each layer, drizzle with oil and vinegar, and season with pepper. Warm flesh absorbs aromas within minutes — which is exactly why you dress it straight away rather than after cooling.

Let the dish rest for at least half an hour. Serve at room temperature — with bread, alongside meat, or as a starter in its own right. Covered in the fridge it keeps for three days, and on day two it tastes even better.

Aubergine halves roasted to a golden crust

Oven version. If you would rather not stand at the stove, halve the aubergines, score the flesh in a criss-cross pattern, salt them and roast at 200°C for about 35 minutes. Then add the same garlic, herbs and vinegar. The flavour comes out softer and smokier, and you need even less oil.